One Dirty Drink Q. How can I get a metal (or tin-like) taste out of my RV’s water tank? I have always flushed the tank with clean water before every trip, then I fill it with clean water, but it still tastes bad. We live in an area where our water is supposedly the best right out of the tap. Our RV is a 1991 Flair and we bought it new. I appreciate your answer to help solve this foul problem. Bud Harriso
Burlingame, Calif. A. The most effective method of removing bacteria and contaminants such as trihalomethanes, (THMs), volatile organic contaminates (VOCs), pesticides, fungicides and metals such as lead is by using a point-of-use (POU) filtration system. I have realized good results from the products produced by Hydro Life. Available at any Camping World location, Hydro Life has perfected a filtering media that employs carbon along with a patented media called KDF. KDF causes an electro-chemical reaction, which neutralizes harmful chemicals and dangerous metals such as lead. To filter all water coming into the RV, use an in-line filter attached to the city water entry. Additionally, be sure to use an in-line filter on your fill hose when filling the freshwater tank. There are many models on the market, but be sure the filtration system satisfies the requirements of Standard 53: Drinking Water Treatment Units—Health Effects, as determined by NSF, a third-party certifying agency. Though no official standard exists for POU filters, virtually all public health officials adopt the standards of the NSF. Charger Check Q. I own a 1995 Coachman Catalina series 23-foot fifth-wheel. The RV battery does not take a charge while the unit is plugged in. However, it does charge while I am hooked up to my tow vehicle. I have checked all the fuses and wiring that I can trace. Alexander Ching
Fallon, Nev. A. Sounds like it’s time to check the converter/charger in your RV. The AC side of the converter is either plugged into a receptacle or is wired directly to the 120-volt AC system, usually always through a circuit breaker. Check the circuit for the converter and be sure that breaker is not tripped. If the breaker is fine, then the problem may be inside the converter. Most converters utilize an internal relay that switches to converter power when plugged in and switches back to battery power when disconnected from the shoreline. Relays can become stuck or burned over time and not switch from one source to the other, thereby creating an opening in the battery circuit. Another possibility is a blown fuse in the battery-charge circuit itself. A fuse could be situated in the converter or in-line near the battery. Check each of these possibilities. If all else fails, send me the make and model of that converter and we’ll dig a little deeper. Voltage Villain Q. I recently purchased a used 1985 Alpenlite fifth-wheel. I just noticed that when I plugged into shore power, the outlets all tested at 117-volts versus the 119-, 120-volts coming in at the extension cord. I’m confused. Is this normal and will it have any effect on the longevity of my appliances? Jim Schrankel
Bothell, Wash. A. Jim, 117-volts AC is quite the norm on many city electrical grids. Keep in mind that there is always some voltage drop through all the devices inside the RV, but most components are safely operated anywhere in the 103- to 125-volt range. This poses no threat to your appliances. Keep monitoring the voltage though, and if it continues to drop or vary considerably, have an experienced RV technician perform a hi-pot test on the AC system. There’s something you can do in the meantime: with the voltage disconnected, tighten all the connections at the breaker box inside the coach and double check any wire nuts in the system. Although it’s not mandated by code, I always recommend applying a wrap of electricians’ tape around all of the wire nuts, just in case the constant jostling of the RV inadvertently loosens them. Questions of general interest will appear in a future issue. Du